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The Yellow Bittern: Books and Dining

The Yellow Bittern, a unique establishment near London's King's Cross station, offers a nostalgic dining experience that challenges modern conventions. This cash-only, lunch-only restaurant combines a bookshop atmosphere with traditional British and Irish cuisine, attracting patrons seeking an analog respite in our digital age.

 

Located at 20 Caledonian Road, this unconventional venue seamlessly blends a bookshop with an intimate 18-cover restaurant. The bookstore section showcases a curated selection of literature on art, photography, and politics, while the dining area offers a cozy atmosphere for leisurely lunches. This hybrid concept creates a unique cultural hub where patrons can browse books, enjoy a meal, and engage in intellectual discourse. The space also serves as the head office for Luncheon Magazine, further emphasizing its role as a creative and literary gathering place.

 

Hugh Corcoran, a Belfast-born chef with experience in the Basque Country and France, and Frances Armstrong Jones, editor of Luncheon magazine, founded The Yellow Bittern with a vision to foster creativity and community. Their diverse backgrounds significantly influence the establishment's atmosphere, blending culinary expertise with literary connections. The founders aim to create a space where people from various backgrounds can gather, mirroring the purpose of Luncheon magazine.

  • The restaurant's philosophy reflects the founders' personal lives and interests, likened to a mechanic's workshop for its practical, hands-on approach.

  • Artwork and personal touches, including a portrait of Samuel Beckett and a picture of Lenin, adorn the space, showcasing the founders' eclectic tastes.

  • The establishment's name, derived from an 18th-century Irish song, pays homage to Corcoran's Irish heritage and the venue's literary connections.

 

The Yellow Bittern offers a unique dining experience with two strict lunch sittings at noon and 2 PM, Monday through Friday. Chef Hugh Corcoran crafts a daily changing menu featuring traditional British and Irish comfort food, influenced by his time in the Basque Country and France. Dishes may include:

  • Starters like radishes with butter and soda bread (£6)

  • Hearty main courses such as Dublin Coddle (£20) and guinea fowl and wood-pigeon pie (£40)

  • Classic desserts like gooseberry fool and trifle

The restaurant's wine service is equally unconventional, offering natural wines and established labels without a formal list. Patrons can select wines based on their budget and taste preferences, with options including Beaujolais from Julie Balagny and Chénas from Domaine Thillardon.

 

We particularly enjoy the quality of cooking and unique atmosphere, however note the limited menu options and occasional unavailability of dishes. The establishment's deliberate rejection of modern dining conventions sparks debate, particularly regarding its cash-only policy and pricing structure. Despite these controversies, the restaurant has quickly gained attention for its unconventional approach, attracting those seeking an authentic, old-world dining experience in London. The founders' vision of reviving lengthy, boozy lunches has resonated with some customers, who appreciate the return to a more traditional and leisurely dining culture.]


In a world increasingly driven by convenience and digital ease, The Yellow Bittern stands as a bold outlier, inviting patrons to step back into a simpler, more deliberate way of dining and connecting. By fusing traditional British and Irish culinary roots with a love for literature, founders Hugh Corcoran and Frances Armstrong Jones have created more than a restaurant—they've crafted a sanctuary for reflection, culture, and conversation. While its unapologetically unconventional approach may not appeal to everyone, The Yellow Bittern undeniably offers an experience that is both refreshingly nostalgic and thought-provoking. For those who yearn for a dining experience that nourishes both body and mind, this establishment challenges modern dining norms and serves as a reminder of the value of slowing down, savoring the moment, and finding joy in the analog pleasures of good food, literature, and community.








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